Limping Through Norway, the Hart 203 Way

So when we left off – Gavin and I had spent four days bicycling around the Netherlands with my college roommate Susan, and this resulted in me re-aggravating a persistent neck injury, and (as we later learned) Susan nearly tearing her ACL. Susan was returning with us to spend a week in Norway, where we’d meet up with our other roommate Meaghan for a week of hiking and other Norwegian outdoor adventures.

 

We had a full day before Meaghan arrived, and we used it to pull ourselves together as much as we could. Susan stayed in bed all day, with her sleep interrupted only by periodic rounds of icing her knee with a bag of frozen peas. I had been unable to get an appointment with my physical therapist, so instead swam laps at the pool, which is the best non-medical thing I’ve found to treat this neck pain. But it had become clear that we’d be unable to do the multi-day hike we’d planned, so would need some other options.

I travel with Susan, Meaghan, and our fourth roommate Jess (who was at home nine months pregnant with her second child) every year, with us each taking our turns hosting. This is our 16th trip in the past 13 years, and the first international destination. We’ve all seen each other at some low points, so in some ways I was relieved that if I was not going to be feeling well, it would be with them. However, I was excited they were here and wanted to rally as much as I could.

We’d planned a picnic to celebrate Meaghan’s arrival. Anytime it’s above 60 degrees, Norwegians mark the occasion by grilling out in a sunny spot, often in as few clothes as possible – since it’s not that often that you can take off both your Gore-Tex outer layer and your thick wool sweater. Norwegians are particularly fond of these single-use grills, which are an aluminum pan filled with charcoal that you light on fire. They work well enough to cook your food, and are far more portable than a stand-alone grill.

The biggest challenge was accommodating the diverse dietary needs of this group. As vegetarians, Susan and Meaghan chose to grill a cabbage and zucchini, which would be mixed into a salad of sorts with some shredded mozzarella and a can of chickpeas. Their meal was confusing to Gavin, as this roughage didn’t seem like enough calories to sustain two adults. He had purchased an economy pack of chicken breasts and a box of rosé.*

A full day of rest made a huge difference for Susan’s knee, so we decided we could still do some short hikes toward the end of the week if we front-loaded the trip with a couple of days of less physically-challenging activities. We spent a day exploring Trondheim slowly on foot, and a day floating the river in kayaks.

I sent Susan and Meaghan off for a day in Røros – a UNESCO-protected traditional Norwegian mining town that Gavin and I visited last summer – so I could rest and give my neck/head more time to recover.

We had rented a car for the remainder of the week, so this allowed us the flexibility to pick some shorter hikes within driving distance of Trondheim. The public transportation system in Norway is excellent, but it does put constraints on hiking options outside of the city. So, I very much enjoyed the opportunity to drive through sleepy villages and country backroads at our own pace. Hikes were kept short — 3-4 hours maximum — and interspersed with stops for waffles or beer.

The change in plans meant I had the opportunity to take them to Tautra — an island in the fjord that’s home to a beautiful monastery. It is my favorite place in Norway. I’ve written about it here, here, and here.

On the final night, we bought some aquavit so that we could relive our college days and engage in a ritual that Gavin thinks is most aptly described by this article from The Onion: Female Friends Spend Raucous Night Validating the Living Shit Out of Each Other.

For those of you who know Susan, ask her how that bus ride to the airport went for her the next day 🙂

Susan and Meaghan, thanks so much for visiting! I love you people so much!

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Note

* Gavin has spent most of his adult life playing defense again what he assumes will be my inevitable conversion to vegetarianism. Having friends and parents that grill cabbage and other leaves does not provide reassurance.

Postscript

Susan is making progress with her knee in physical therapy, and has even been cleared to get back on a bike. I am also making slow progress with my neck, although I am looking forward to the rash of medical appointments I’ve scheduled for our first week back in the US.

And Jess and Eric’s baby was born! I am so very excited for them!