This is the most Norwegian Experience we’ve had yet

In much of Europe, there is the sense that patriotism is a bit unseemly.  Patriotism is a small step to nationalism, and nationalism hasn’t historically gone well in Europe.  This feeling has not made its way to Norway: Norwegians are really, really proud of what they’ve built, and while they’ll be polite about it, they’re pretty sure it’s better than wherever you’re from.  On May 17, Constitution Day, all of this erupts in a nation-wide demonstration of traditional dress, marching bands, children unashamedly yelling “hip hip hurra!“, and lots and lots (and lots) of flags.  It’s quaint, charming, and joyful; we were delighted.

Norway’s political history is a complicated one, with shifting power, wars, and alliances with Denmark and Sweden.  May 17 celebrates the signing of the Norwegian Constitution in 1814, though Norway’s independence was almost immediately thereafter snuffed out by Sweden; the Constitution was fully restored in 1905.  When World War II ended for Norway near-enough to May 17, the date was elevated to the national day, and established as the biggest holiday on the calendar.

Traditional Dress

The most striking thing about May 17 is that pretty much everyone wears a bunad – the traditional dress of Norway. The style of the bunad differs from region to region, and the term refers to both men’s and women’s clothing. Bunads are considered a family heirloom, and are typically handed down from grandmother (or grandfather) to granddaughter (or grandson). A new bunad can cost in the $3,000-$4,000 range, and only minimal deviations from the regional pattern are permitted.

Here are some pictures of different bunads, which we took while trying to be casual and not make it look like we were taking pictures of strangers.

For those concerned that the festivities may damage their outfit, DNB Bank was advertising 24 hours of bunad insurance.

Those who don’t have a bunad still typically dress up. Gavin wore his suit, and since I had sent home most of my formal clothing, I went as formal and as Norwegian as possible in my Dale of Norway sweater.

I’ve tried to think about the closest traditional-dress analog in America, but there really isn’t one. In contrast, here’s Gavin’s go-to patriotic outfit at home.*

Festivities

The festivities in Trondheim were organized around three parades – the Children’s Parade (school groups and marching bands), the People’s Parade (social groups, arts associations, and sports clubs), and the Russ Parade (throngs of drunk and half-naked teenagers — read our previous post for a refresher). Our hosts were Anne Elster (Gavin’s research collaborator) and her father Nils, who met us at our apartment to walk to the Children’s Parade together, and provided us with lapel ribbons and flags.

The Children’s Parade is comprised of school-aged kids from across Trondheim, interspersed with various bands. We caught a glimpse of our neighbor, marching with Singsaker Skole.

Afterwards, everyone eats the traditional Norwegian meal of hot dogs from the 7-Eleven.

We went back downtown to get a glimpse of the Russ Parade, which was more raucous and naked than the Children’s Parade in the morning. The parade is the final event of Russ, which as you’ll recall is a debaucherous multi-week celebration at the end of high school. Those left standing were in high spirits, but our understanding is that some kids skip out in favor of some much-needed sleep.

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGOQImrqZgU?rel=0]

Norway: we think you’re pretty great too!

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* Gavin was seriously contemplating bring the Eagle hat with us to Norway, and I talked him out of it. He could have worn it at least 3-4 times on different occasions when we were celebrating America for whatever reason. Missed opportunity!